One of the most beautiful drive I have ever taken was along the California Coast to Big Sur. Drastically different from what I am used to on the East Coast, I felt like I was in a different country. I was belting out the classic Mamas & Papas song California Dreamin’ while taking in every inch of the incredible landscape. My daughter Harmony and I visited in 2018 and it was the first time I took her across the country. I couldn’t have chosen a better trip as we have the time of our lives and have been wanting to come back ever since. It also sparked our inner adventure travel bug and we have since been on several other outdoor adventures.
This road trip is perfect for a quick weekend getaway or even as a day trip if you are pressed on time and just want an introduction to the area. However, after your visit, I guarantee you will find that you will want to come back over and over again. It is also perfect if you are travelling with little kids as there are no major hikes involved. So without further ado, here is my list of 5 must stops on a Big Sur road trip.
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Table of Contents
Bixby Bridge
Bixby Creek Bridge is one of the most picturesque spots in the USA. A magnificent bridge on its own, the dramatic cliffs and seaside add to its majestic beauty. A well-known attraction on Highway 1, it has been featured in countless commercials, postcards, TV shows, movies, etc. It represents the epitome of a California road trip. The bridge was on top of my Big Sur bucket list and it did not disappoint. Even my 4-year old was in awe!
About 15 miles from Carmel, the drive down Highway 1 will take roughly 30 mins. Once there, the most popular option is to stop at the turnout at the North entrance of the bridge. You will find a small parking lot which is free. From the parking lot, a short walk will lead you to a perfect area for some great photos. If you are craving a little adventure, you can also stop at the Southern entrance. There is a little path that take you up a hill where you can also take amazing pictures of the bridge. While you are at it, make sure to take advantage of the various viewpoints in both directions.
North entrance South entrance
Calla Lily Valley
Off the beaten path, there is this little valley filled with calla lilies. I stumbled upon it when doing my pre-trip research. The wild flowers bloom from late January until the end of April, just in time for our Spring Break visit. Tucked along Highway 1, there is no signage on the road to signal the start of the trail. The closest signage is mile-marker 63 not far from gate 19 in Garrapata State Park. The trail starts near the marker. It is very easy to miss the marker. It actually happened to me and I had to pull over at another turnout and back track.
Park along the road then follow the Garrapata trail. It’s a small hike through guided wires and patches of wildflowers, then down wooden steps into the valley. Depending on the time of year, you will be greeted by magnificent white calla lilies. A small creek runs throughout the valley and flows into the ocean. Follow its path to the beach. It is the perfect spot for a picnic.
Nepenthe
48510 Highway 1 (Big Sur, CA)
Nepenthe restaurant offers breathtaking cliff side views. Sitting on the coast just above the Pacific Ocean, You will be transported to a different world. Offering American fare, the food is decent and the drinks tasty. When planning my trip, I read some of the poor food reviews but didn’t want to let that deter me from coming. With no expectation whatsoever, it turned out to be a very pleasant meal and my daughter and I thoroughly enjoyed our time there.
It is located off Highway 1, 29 miles South of Carmel. Just look for their sign on the road and you can’t miss the driveway. There is ample parking on site. Reservations can be made but they sell out MONTHS in advance. The restaurant also offers walk ins for their waiting list. A big bonus for travelling families, Nepenthe is kid-friendly: they have a kids menu and give out crayons and paper upon seating us down.
Pfeiffer Beach
9100 Sycamore Canyon Road (Big Sur, CA)
Pfeiffer Beach is known for Keyhole Arch and its purple sand. I had to drive around a couple of times before finding the entrance to the road. Pfeiffer Beach goes down an unmarked road called Sycamore Canyon Road which winds its way 2 miles down a windy road to the parking lot. No oversized vehicles are allowed on the road (which at times turn into a dirt road) as the road is pretty narrow with no pullouts. The parking area has very limited spaces so be ready to be turned away at the top of the road like we did.
There is a $12 cash only entrance fee. From the parking lot, it is a short 5 min walk to reach the beach. As you walk down the beach, you will pass by Keyhole Arch, the focal point of the beach. This amazing rock formation is known for its window where water and waves come rushing through. It can attract big crowds especially at sunset. Indeed you will usually find an array of tripods facing the Arch. Professional photographers and enthusiasts alike won’t want to miss the exact moment when the sun rays hit the small window setting it aglow.
While there, notice the purple hues of the sand in some areas. This is caused by manganese garnet rocks in the cliffs. It is more visible after it rains. My daughter Harmony had a great kick playing with the purple sand.
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McWay Falls
52801 Highway 1 (Big Sur, CA)
McWay Falls is another iconic spot in Big Sur. Located inside Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, the waterfall is 80 ft tall and empties directly into the ocean.
To get there, park at the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park ($10 parking fee) It is a short hike from the parking lot, through a tunnel and to the overlook of the beach. You can also park for free along the shoulder of Highway 1 which is what I did (I am a budget mom after all and cannot pass up cheap/free deals). The viewing area is fairly small and is usually crowded. Furthermore you will find photographers (easily recognizable with their tripods) at the best spots especially around sunset. Although there is not much to do here beside than snapping epic pictures of the waterfalls, it still isn’t an experience you want to miss!
Note: access to the beach is illegal due to erosion and treacherous terrain. It is a hefty fine if you are caught trespassing and Rangers routinely monitor the area.
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Where to stay and eat
Although completely out my budget, I couldn’t help getting a major of wanderlust checking out the luxurious accommodations Big Sur has to offer like Post Ranch Inn and Ventana Big Sur. Even a glamping option like Treebones is still out of my price range. But a girl can dream, right! Instead we stayed in a type-like cabin at Big Sur Lodge which was slightly within my budget but conveniently located for my itinerary. I also recommend checking out the various campgrounds for a more economical alternative.
I mentioned Nepenthe restaurant as a restaurant option. Do try Big Sur Bakery as well: their pastries are very yummy! But don’t let their name fool you. They are also open for lunch and dinner.
Things to know
- There is no service in Big Sur so make sure to plan accordingly. I recommend downloading Google Maps ahead of time so you can access it offline. I also always have hard copy of my itinerary when I travel (sorry trees!) as a back-up
- Pack up on snacks and other foods. They tend to be pricey in the area
- Peak season is from April to October
- Book your room/campground far in advance. Big Sur is a very popular destination and hotels easily sell out.
- Check for road closures and current conditions. Roads are often impacted by landslides and fires
- Fill up your tank before you get to Big Sur as gas prices can be double almost triple
Now you can see why Big Sur is a favorite place of ours. Next time, we will definitely stay longer. I would love to spend several days to explore the different State Parks and do some more serious hiking now that my daughter is older. Hope you get to visit and experience this amazing place as pictures do not do it justice!
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